My nemesis – a fitted blouse

In my last post I showed you a photo of the fitted blouse I have been making since….well all year it seems. I finished it at the end of March but am really disappointed with the fit so it is only now that I am sharing photos as I lost my sewjo a little.

I should say that it was always the intention that this blouse was a practice and the printed cotton was very cheap but I sort of got drawn into making the whole thing rather than just concentrating on the fit. I am a little, well a lot, obsessed that I have a large bust and that I need to make adjustments.  I think I have been over thinking this too much and this blouse is a case in point.  I looked at the sizes on the packet and decided I needed to make a FBA (Full bust adjustment).  The actual pattern (Mcalls 7575) was from Love Sewing and had loads of information about fitting the pattern.  I spent about a week in the evenings fiddling around with the pattern, trying it against me, and trying to follow the instructions for the FBA.  I have to say they didn’t make a lot of sense so in the end I googled it and followed one of the trustee bloggers which I have used before – I can’t remember which one.  I took the construction slowly as I wanted to do a good job.  My next mistake was that I bought too heavy an interfacing.  I hadn’t realised the interfacing would go in the yoke as well as the collar, placket and cuffs.  Having got past the darts and convinced myself the fit was good, I moved on to the collar, placket and cuffs and I am really pleased with how those turned out – I think they are really professional.  I love the button hole function on my sewing machine.  Then it was time to try on the final version…..

As you can see form my sad face I’m not that thrilled.  The blouse is, in my opinion, too big.  If you look at the top photo you can see lots of wrinkles where there is too much fabric.  I tried to demonstrate in my awful photo just how much space there was.  I don’t think I will ever wear this as it just feels wrong.

However, I refuse to be deterred and I decided to go back a bit to a more basic shape and see if I could get the fit right.  I have over the last week made a sleeveless top which I am really pleased with and will share soon.  But I learnt lots from the pattern.  I measured my upper bust and went for that size; I didn’t worry about making any adjustments.  I noticed that the pattern included finished garment size and this implied there would be enough space so I decided to just go for it.  Having discovered the finished garment size on this pattern I went back to the blouse pattern and lo and behold it too had finished garment size.  Having looked at the sizes I suspect I could have just made the blouse without any adjustments.

So my lessons from this make are as follows:
i) Read both the body measurements and also the finished garment size.
ii) Make a muslin from cheap plain fabric – but just make the main pieces to get the sizing right and don’t spend time finishing it like a garment.  I’ve bought a load of very cheap cloth to do this.
iii) Read the pattern properly before buying interfacing etc to understand where it will go so you get the right weight
iv) Be less critical and worry less.
v) Even if it doesn’t turn out well – I will have learned something.


One Comment Add yours

  1. Cheap fabrics are harder to work with, too. But you have at least learned not to over think a pattern!


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